WORDS AND IMAGES BY KERI DASKAM
I've long heard rumors in whispers around town that the best pie in Denton can be found at Loco Café. Not only did my long overdue reconnaissance mission need to be performed between the hours of 7:00am and 3:00pm, but the pie doesn’t even show up until Friday. You may see this elusive beast Saturday, Sunday, or even Monday morning for the luckiest, but those who appreciate freshness, predictability, and just-from-the-oven warmth can and should make their standing pie dates around 10am on Friday.
Let’s first talk about the size of this pie. At six deep-dish inches in diameter, it is the perfect size for a dessert. It is easily sharable for two or three, or can even be split into mini slivers of six with a melon ball scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream (you know you want to try that for the Instagram-able cuteness of it all). Let’s be honest though, the real genius of this perfect size is you could conceivably hoard it all for yourself. No judgement here. I would probably pony up my own $5 round of decadence and join you.
Last week’s jackpot showcased a cherry pie with a crumb topping. I felt like I won the lottery when I saw the sign. I love a sour cherry pie, and this one was far from disappointing. Of course it offered more than canned pie filling. Of course. Instead, whole bright dots of cherry floated in a creamy pink base. The filling was nicely balanced, not too sweet so the rubbly sugar from the crumble topping crunched through in every bite. The buttery crust was rustic and nicely salted, thin on the bottom and thick up the sides as it should be. I ate a piece for breakfast and it was perfect. I ate another piece after dinner for dessert, and it was also perfect. Coffee-drinkers, for you, this pie will offer up extra delight. I can’t even imagine trying it without a steaming cup of black coffee at its side.
You can expect to find buttermilk, peach, pecan, chocolate pecan, and coconut cream in the line-up, but varieties are chosen based on seasonal freshness and the best all-natural ingredients at hand. Loco’s master baker, Janita, mentioned she will even take requests. I asked what we could expect to see this weekend and she replied, “Do you have a suggestion?” In fact, I did have a suggestion, and you can expect to see it in the bakery case this Friday.
Keri Daskam is a Denton, TX based freelance writer who divides her time between family, food, books, textiles, ReadyRosie, and the warm comforts of home.